Cup: Chocolatey with toffee, citrus fruit and candy pecan; sweet with big acidity and a smooth mouthfeel
Region: Alotepec, Chalatengano
Farm: Pena Redonda
Altitude: 1500 MASL
Proc. Method: Honey
Carlos Mauricio Lemus - Finca - Pena Redonda - Pacamara - Honey
Carlos Mauricio Lemus Landaverde is a young producer who inherited his father’s 4-hectare farm after his father, Jose Maria Lemus, passed away in a car accident last year. Carlos is following in his father’s and family’s footsteps with regards to quality, though, and was awarded as the ninth-place winner in the 2017 El Salvador Cup of Excellence competition. After picking, depulping, and sorting, coffee is put on raised beds to dry for 15–18 days.
Fruit Removal: Fruit skin is removed within 24 hours of harvest; all or some of the mucilage is left to dry on the seeds
Fermentation: Occurs throughout the drying process
Drying Time: 18–25 days
Profile: Can express some fruity/pulpy/jammy flavors or stewed-fruit-like characteristics; caramel or burnt-sugar sweetness; nuttiness
The relatively recent emergence of a processing style known as Honey has become prominent throughout Central American coffee-producing countries, perhaps most notably Costa Rica. In many respects, the Honey process is similar (practically identical, in fact) to the Brazilian-based post-harvest process known as Pulp Natural or Pulped Natural. As in that methodology, a Honey coffee is depulped, meaning the skin of the coffee cherry is removed, and the seed is allowed to dry with some or all of its sticky fruit mucilage intact. This process retains some of the desirable characteristics of a full Natural coffee (heavy body, sweet fruitiness with lower acidity, deep chocolate notes) while also speeding the drying process considerably, and reducing some of the risk of spoilage, mold, and other defects that can occur with fully intact coffee cherry on the drying patios or tables.
In many cases in this Costa Rican variation (which is gaining speed in El Salvador and Honduras, among other places worldwide), producers will remove different amounts of the mucilage material in order to manipulate the coffee’s finished profile, or moderate the drying process to achieve different Honey levels, assigning differentiating terms to correspond with the results, from Yellow Honey (the mildest, perhaps closest to Washed coffees), Red Honey, and Black Honey (which is arguably most comparable to the Brazilian Pulped Natural).
The most obvious benefit to the Honey process over strict Naturals is the speed and efficiency of the drying process, as well as the various flavor characteristics that can emerge through fermentation and exposure. On the other hand, the exposed fruit material does create more risk for the producers, as it requires more labor in drying to prevent taints from developing.
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